Comment By: Mike

Posted: 19th November 2007

My current boiler is a Glow-worm, and the one before that was one too. I even remember when i was growing up sitting on top of an old floorstanding boiler with a glow-bug on it.
In all that time I have had few problems – i get more problems with my TV, washing machine and dryer than with my boiler. And, I haven’t had the problems I’ve heard some of my neighbours talking about with their makes of boiler.
Everyone has different experiences – but i would recommend glowworm to anyone thinking about having a new boiler.

Comment By: karen

Posted: 03rd February 2008

I recently purchased a 30cxi boiler. The pipes which come out of the bottom of the boiler are completely exposed and the valves (?) actually sit lower than the bottom of the boiler casing so it will be very difficult to box the pipes in. I have never seen a boiler with the pipes quite as exposed as this and it certainly doesn’t look good. There are screw holes on the underside of the external casing so it looks like there should be something else (skirt or base plate?) which would fit onto the bottom of the casing but the installer didn’t seem to know. Are we missing a part?

Comment By: srushton

Posted: 06th February 2008

Hi karen

Sounds as though you are missing a bottom cover plate – this should have been included in the boiler carton. I’ve sent you a private message with the details of one of my colleagues at Glow-worm – please get in touch with your address and we’ll arrange for one to be sent out.

Hope that helps

Sally

Comment By: Adrian

Posted: 26th February 2008

Hi guys. I just bought a flat with a 30cxi boiler newly insatlled. I don’t seem to be getting any hot water. The CH is working and only once did I manage to get hot water for about 5 seconds. I looked at the little pictures near to the pipes at the bottom of the boiler and the ones with the picture of a tap were freezing!! Quite disappointing as this is my first day in my new home. Cannot find any troubleshooting guide.
Also, the light is not on and the temperature is not showing. Don’t know what is going on but it is not the most user friendly manual or boiler that I have ever come across. Cannot wait to get this sorted/out of my flat!!

Comment By: srushton

Posted: 29th February 2008

Hi Adrian

Sorry to hear that you are experiencing some difficulty with your Cxi boiler.

The most important thing is to make sure that the hot water temperature dial has been turned up high – if it is in the off position this may prevent the water becoming hot. The dial is located to the right of the small digital display and has a picture of a tap and the word Eco at approx 1 o’clock position. It needs to be turned somewhere between eco and fully clockwise. The hot water function is automatic when the boiler is turned on.

If the hot water thermostat is turned up and you still have no joy then the following will help:

The symptoms that you have can have two possible outcomes:

Firstly a problem may unfortunately exist in the two components that control/turn on the hot water, requiring a visit by the after sales team. However, as you have moved into a new flat and the boiler has only just been fitted there could also be another problem
Sometimes boilers can be piped up incorrectly (very accidentally, but it can happen) the hot and cold water pipes do require to be piped up in the correct sequence this will need to be checked by the installer or developer of the property, if found to be correct they can contact us.

It is important that you do get support and that when moving into a new property; guidance should always be sought from the developer. There may also be priority arrangements for after sales support.

The instructions are always emotive and writing styles do not suit everyone; however feedback is always important for product improvements in which, as a company, helps us achieve better results and better feedback.

Thanks for getting in touch,

Sally, on behalf of Glow-worm

Comment By: Polly

Posted: 13th March 2010

I have a glow worm space saver-r-series-mk 11. We have had a new hot water tank fitted and a new boiler thermostat but, the water temperature is still to hot . Any suggestions on how to cure this problem.

Comment By: admin

Posted: 15th March 2010

Hi Polly

Speak to a recommend installer about getting a cylinder stat installed – this will help stop the boiler firing up once the water temperature has reached the desired set point. This will limit the cylinder temperature to whatever the stat is set to.

If you have one already it may simply be a case of turning the stat down.

Thanks, Sally

Comment By: Mrs Coe

Posted: 11th April 2010

I have a Glow-worm Sapace Saver Mk11 Series Boiler which was fitted in 1984 and runs my central Heating only connected is a wood stove with a seperate pump which also runs my central heating. I want to keep this system but need to renew the gas boiler. I am told I cannot use a condensing boiler for this system. Can I get the the same boiler (newer of course) so that I can have it fitted with the least possible disruption? Please does anyone know.

Comment By: admin

Posted: 12th April 2010

Hi Mrs Coe

I would advise you to contact an installer in your area (see http://www.glow-wormheating.co.uk/approved-boiler-installers/find-an-installer.php) and they will be able to advise on the most appropriate model.

Thanks, Sally

Comment By: Mrs Coe

Posted: 28th September 2010

Contacted an installer who had a look and advised to keep old boiler and have it serviced, install a thermostat and keep both systems, Still not sure if old boiler of over 25 years is ok to keep? what do you think

Comment By: admin

Posted: 28th September 2010

Hi Mrs Coe

It’s certainly great news that your boiler has lasted so long! We normally estimate an average boiler expectancy of 10-12 years.

After that your boiler will increase in efficiency significantly. It is entirely reasonable therefore, that if you upgrade to an A grade high efficiency boiler, you could save up to £240 on your energy bills (annually) and reduce your carbon footprint.

We have a list of installers here who should be able to help.

Cheers, Sally

Comment By: Nick Morrissey

Posted: 07th October 2010

Hi,

I have just had what I think is a Flexicom Hx condensing boiler fitted in place of my old boiler. Both CH & HW appear to be working ok but I have major doubts that something is not right with the hot water system.

I was told by the installer that default display front screen on the LCD display on the boiler is the current “water temperature” and when you hold in ‘mode’ for 2 seconds you can adjust the “heating rad temperature” witht the ‘+’ & ‘-’ buttons.

He also told me that the primary method to adjust the water temp is on the hot water tank upstairs but I dont think it is.! I played with the system for a few weeks and I think the little box with dial elasticated to the tank is purely to do with the old electric emersion heater element which still works as a back up.

My concern is that I have moved this dial to very hot and water does not change temp at all. Even more worryingly I have pressed mode on boiler as a separate test and moved the so called “radiator temp” up to 82C (Max for that boiler). In doing this the water gets hotter!!!????

There is more; I have to have the boiler “rad temp” at about 70-82C just to get hotish water. When the HW cycle is activated on the control box (Advance +1hr) the boiler turns on (correctly) and just heats the water temperature displayed on the front LCD display to what ever the 2 second mode temperature is set to on the rear screen. e.g. if 82C “rad temp” is set” then boiler will come on and show 25C on front screen initially; it will rise until 82C then cut off when it gets there. It will never respond to the dial I have upstairs around the tank even if this is set to cut off at only 30C! (cold)

So my questions are:-

1.) What is the boiler temperature front screen actually indicating? is it the boiler’s outgoing water flow loop temperature that is used either for heating or hot water tank element depending on the diverter valve position, or is it the ‘actual’ water temperature in the emersion tank it’s self?

2.) It seems that the screen behind the front screen (mode for 2 seconds) is supposed to set the “rad temperature” but mine affects the water temperature!? Has the guy wired the thermisters up or installed the pipes/connections the wrong way around or something? i.e the boiler is currently never interrupted/shut off by any other control thermostat (other than the CH hallway dial)so it always just hits the set “rad temp” and turns of thus not heating the water properly/fully. It seems to be using the wrong feedback information to control water. Is it measuring the boiler flow pipe temp rather than the boiler return pipe temp by accident? The boiler reaches 82C fom 25C in about 4 mins then turns off. Surely this is not correct. The tank should take 20-45 mins to heat right?……because the return pipe to the boiler should have cooled as a result of trying to heat the tank using the spiral element.

I really need help with this someone please so i can tell my land lady to get the gut to come back and so i am not wasting loads of gas by it ramping up to 82C each time i need water and only getting luke warm water. (upstairs is better)

Thank you so much in advance and sorry for long post.

Nick Morrissey
07968 497686. mob

Comment By: admin

Posted: 11th November 2010

Hi Nick

Just wanted to check that this was all sorted – I understand my colleagues From Glow-worm contacted you direct.
Just wanted to follow this up and make sure it was all ok.

Cheers

Comment By: Pat Crilly

Posted: 26th November 2010

Please can you recommend an eng to fix a 30 yr old freestanding glow worm boiler i cannot afford a new one. Thank you.

Comment By: admin

Posted: 29th November 2010

Hi Pat – thanks for your note. We have an approved list of installers which you can search by postcode by clicking here.

Comment By: jan matin

Posted: 20th December 2010

I have a glow worm boiler 30cxi installed 3 years ago with no probs until now, but the heating has stopped coming on automatically and will only work if I use the on/off switch each time, and as it is located in the loft (and I am no longer young and fit) It is very awkward to keep going up there when I want the heating on.

Comment By: admin

Posted: 20th December 2010

Hi Jan – thanks for your comment. Sorry to hear that you’re experience difficulties. Can you clarify where your boiler controls are sited? It maybe worth checking the settings on your control or asking a friend to, if access is difficult. Hope to hear from you soon, Sally

Comment By: Steve

Posted: 20th December 2010

I have a glowworm ultimate 80FF, just recently the hot water hasn’t been working but this occured shortly after the central heating didn’t work when I had a leaking pipe. After draining the system and then re-filling it the boiler didn’t ignite until I had pressed the overheat cut-off button which then siwtched the boiler on. Since then the water hasn’t heated up but my imersion does which rules out one problem, but once again this morning the overheat button needed pressed in to get the boiler working again. Any help would be very much appreciated in this time of much needed heat.

Comment By: admin

Posted: 21st December 2010

Hi Steve – I’d advise that you contact our customer services team on 01773828100. They are in over the Christmas period (except Christmas day) so you should be able to get this sorted ASAP. Let me know how you get on. Cheers, Sally

Comment By: sean

Posted: 23rd December 2010

Hi ive got a constant drip from the overflow of my 30ci glow worm, its lowering the pressure and causing the boiler not to work due to the low pressure .when i top up the system the same cycle happens again . any ideas

Comment By: admin

Posted: 29th December 2010

Hi Sean – Just wanted to check this matter was resolved. My colleague Andrew contacted you last week and I wanted to ensure that eveything was in order. Kind regards, Sally

Comment By: Steve

Posted: 08th March 2011

Hi, Having the same issue as Sean (23rd Dec 2010) with pressure lowering and constant drip from overflow. Any ideas?

Comment By: admin

Posted: 09th March 2011

Hi Steve – If the pressure is leaking via the overflow pipe then there may be an issue with the expansion vessel in the boiler which has lost pressure, or the expansion vessel pipe could be blocked causing the same fault. I would recommend that you contact a gas safe registered engineer to check the air charge in the vessel.

Comment By: Jim Glover

Posted: 12th May 2011

My partner has a two and a half year old 30 CXI. The system was fully power flushed and serviced recently.

Post service, every now and again, after the heating has been on for an hour or two we get a worrying deep rumble and vibration from the boiler usually just for a short while. It’s as if the fan or some other device is or is trying to kick in. It sometimes now occurs when we run the water. We have had the engineer back to investigate but unfortunately the boiler behaves well while he is here. The heating and hot water seem to work ok.

Any ideas?

Comment By: Laura

Posted: 13th May 2011

Hi There, In have just had a FlexiCom 30 installed and all the pipe work that comes out from the bottom looks absolutely awful. After seeing all of the images for this boiler on your sire and on the web in general non of them look like mine does right now. What, if anything can i do about this? |Can the pipes run up the back of the boiler? Non of the images Glow Worm show have unsightly pipes showing the way they do in reality. I am so disappointed with this boiler. Laura

Comment By: admin

Posted: 16th May 2011

Hi Holly. Sorry to hear you’re disappointed with your new Flexicom. My colleagues assure me that the pipes can be routed up the back of the boiler via an upward piping frame. It is a stand off bracket which stands the boiler off the wall by 47mm and then the pipes can be routed up the back.

I’d suggest contacting your installer again to explain why you’re displeased and outline details as in above. Let me know if you have any problems.
Cheers, Sally

Comment By: admin

Posted: 16th May 2011

Hi JIm. It sounds as though the inlet gas supply may be dipping at various points of the day causing the combustion to go out of calibration, thus causing the rumbling noise. When the boiler is first set up, the combustion is set up to around 9.1% on the inlet working gas supply at the the time. So if it was set up with a pressure of 20 m/bar, and now it has dropped slightly to 18 m/bar, it will cause a noise issue. I’d suggest contacting your engineer again to rectify – please feel free to refer him/her back to Glow-worm if necessary. Cheers, Sally

Comment By: Alan

Posted: 19th May 2011

Hi, I’ve a Glow Worm CXi 30 boiler which was fiited 3 years ago. Last night wee had a power cut and the boiler was off for from the mains for approx 6 hours. Tried all the tips in the manual but the boiler has refused to turn back on using the mains reset switch etc. I’ve checked the fuse in the plug (all ok) and I’m stumped as to what else the fault could be. Any idea’s?

Comment By: admin

Posted: 19th May 2011

Hi Alan – It sounds as though the power cut has spiked the circuit board so it would require an engineer to look a this and do the relevant voltage checks on it. We have a list of engineers on the Glow-worm website who should be able to help. Hope it gets sorted soon. Sally

Comment By: Nick Hemingway

Posted: 27th October 2011

We have a Glow Worm Ultimate 80ff boiler which we have had for 16 years. Recently, the overheat cutoff has been popping out about once a week leaving the house cold and not hot water in a morning. On pressing it, the boiler reignites and is fine. This has happened 5 times in the last month.
Any ideas please.
Thanks

Comment By: admin

Posted: 27th October 2011

Hi Nick – it sounds as though you have some kind of circulation problem with your system. I’d suggest you contact an enginner to arrange a visit. Hope it gets sorted very soon!

Comment By: Jay

Posted: 07th November 2011

We have a Glow worm 30cxi which keeps losing pressure? i have tried the recommended solution to no avail
I have heard of similar problems with others – it has been serviced recently

Comment By: admin

Posted: 08th November 2011

Hi Jason – If the boiler is constantly losing pressure then there is either a leak somewhere on the system, or water is leaking via the pressure relief valve pipe outside.

If it is the latter then the pressure will be rising on the digital display up to 3 bar then releasing out of the pipe outside. This may mean that there is a problem with the expansion vessel having lost some air charge, or the expansion vessel pipe being blocked. However if it isn’t leaking outside then there must be a leak somewhere on the system.

Talk to an engineer and he or she should be able to locate the source of your problem to get this sorted.